Contemporary American
River North -
500 North ClarkWe went through our
A la Card deck to create a list of must-visits for the rest of 2009. In the spirit of full disclosure, we actually created an Excel spreadsheet and emailed it back and forth during the work day. We are huge nerds. We agreed that Naha's menu was incredibly alluring, so we made reservations and ate there before going to a party.
The place was pretty empty when we arrived, which we thought was odd considering they forced us to take a 6pm reservation, but we accepted it. We were then seated right next to one of the few other couples in the place, which lost them a few diner points. We quickly got bread with a pretty piece of Naha paper placed over the butter (a nice touch). Our server seemed pretty knowledgeable, so we accepted his suggestions as we moved throughout the meal.
We started with rich autumn squash soup, always a fall delight. It was made from three types of squash--Long Island Cheesecake, Queensland Blue, and Spaghetti Squash.
It was absolutely incredible. The bowl came out with pine nuts, pomegranate seeds, and spaghetti squash in it (didn't snap a picture quickly enough to capture that moment), and the server then poured the soup into the bowl on top of everything. It made for an exciting presentation, and it tasted as good as it looked. The texture was perfect, and the treats at the bottom of the bowl kept it interesting. The pomegranate seeds were like little bursts of flavor, and the pine nuts were excellent complements to the flavor of the squash. On the side was a sandwich of 18 month "Bandaged" Wisconsin Cheddar and Oxtails (decidedly not vegetarian).
We, of course, ordered the beat salad when it came time to pick one.
Although we order (and make) beet salads often, this one still managed to seem very special. There were two types of beets paired with mache, Italian frisee, ricotta cheese, and very thinly sliced beauty heart radishes, and (the major highlight) apple cider and concord grape vinaigrette.
Brittney ordered the Purdy Family Whitefish.
The fish came with butter-poached Maine lobster (pretty much the reason I ordered it), Spence Farm wheatberries (basically quinoa) with maitake mushrooms, cipollini onions, "frothy" mushroom broth, and red wine lobster essence. The highlight of this dish was probably the combination of the wheatberries and the mushrooms. The fish itself was a little fishier than I expected, and the dish came out a little heavier than I expected. Now that I haven't eaten meat other than fish for almost 2 years, whenever a dish seems too oily, brown, and heavy, I tend to feel a little turned off by it. Although I'm sure the dish was cooked well, it just wasn't for me. I've always preferred the other courses to the entree anyway.
The squab was roasted whole and served with foie gras, crisp potato cake with Armenian rose petal marmalade, walnuts and licorice root, carrots, medjool dates and pink peppercorns. The bird was cooked perfectly and had the texture and coloring of duck breast. The combination of the foie gras, squab, carrots, and dates was really quite incredible. I don't usually enjoy the sweet/savory combo but this was a great exception. Also, the waiter recommended a rosé wine, which I would never order, and it went perfectly with the dish.
I've told anyone who will listen to me about Naha the same thing: this was probably the best single dish I've had in my life. I really can't say enough about it. Neither can Brittney for that matter, but that's because she was so horrified by the fact that the legs/claws were still attached to the bird. She was so horrified in fact, that she had to strategically place the wine glasses in front of my plate so that she couldn't see it. At least it didn't look like
this though, right?
Although there were plenty of desserts that sounded incredible, we opted for the "Gateau Basque" custard cake with almond ice cream, poached seckel pears, pear eau de vie, and pomegranate.
This was quite possibly the most impressive dessert we've ever ordered. There are so many things happening on this plate to even capture on film. Instead of seeming overwhelming, it was like 100 surprises in one dish. The cake itself was moist, the pears were flavorful, the eau de vie (sauce) was sweet, the ice cream was creamy, the foam was foamy... Perfect.
Overall, the ambiance of the place was that of a secret club of connoisseurs, with a knowledgeable staff and friendly patrons. It was an incredible meal, perfect for a slight splurge of a meal, a special occasion, or a 5th date... maybe 6th.